Nick Kwek’s Culinary Adventures Around Sabah

From the lush rainforests to the pristine beaches of Borneo, Sabah’s culinary heritage is as diverse as its breathtaking landscapes. British food journalist and presenter Nick Kwek embarked on an adventurous gastronomic journey through this Malaysian state, uncovering flavors deeply rooted in indigenous traditions and modern influences. His exploration showcased Sabah’s rich food culture, from rustic kampung (village) kitchens to bustling night markets, leaving him mesmerized by what he called ‘a very special cuisine.’

One of Kwek’s first stops was with the Kadazan-Dusun people, Sabah’s largest indigenous group, who introduced him to the art of preparing. This delicacy, made from raw mackerel cured in lime juice and mixed with grated ginger, shallots, and bird’s eye chili, bore a resemblance to ceviche but carried a distinctly Bornean identity. Hinava represents the Kadazan-Dusun’s deep connection to the sea and their preference for fresh, unaltered flavors.

Kwek was also invited to experience Bambang, a type of wild mango often pickled and served as a side dish. The fruit’s tangy and pungent taste, combined with its fibrous texture, made for a bold contrast to the more delicate seafood dishes he sampled. Every bite, he remarked, told a story of generations preserving their culinary customs.

No trip to Sabah is complete without a visit to the famed Filipino Night Market in Kota Kinabalu. Here, Kwek indulged in grilled seafood cooked to perfection over charcoal, paired with sambal dips that packed a fiery punch. Among the highlights was the ikan bakar, or grilled fish wrapped in banana leaves, infused with aromatic local herbs. He also tried but—sago larvae, a delicacy often eaten live or deep-fried. While initially hesitant, Kwek described it as ‘unexpectedly creamy with a nutty aftertaste.’

Venturing into Sabah’s dense jungles, Kwek encountered tuhau, a wild ginger used in local dishes for its intense aroma. While some find its fragrance overpowering, it remains a cherished ingredient in traditional cooking. He also discovered ambulate, a starchy, glue-like dish made from sago flour and eaten with various side dishes. The experience of twirling the sticky substance around chopsticks and dipping it into flavorful sauces made it an unforgettable culinary challenge.

Kwek’s journey also led him to Sabah’s emerging fine-dining scene, where young chefs are redefining traditional flavors with modern techniques. He savored a reinterpretation of having served with avocado puree and edible flowers at one contemporary restaurant, merging Indigenous flavors with contemporary presentation. He was particularly impressed by a dessert featuring durian panna cotta, which transformed the notorious ‘king of fruits’ into a delicacy even skeptics could appreciate.

Nick Kwek’s culinary adventure around Sabah was more than a food-tasting experience; it was a deep dive into the region’s rich cultural tapestry. From humble home-cooked meals to innovative restaurant creations, every dish told a story of Sabah’s history, people, and connection to nature. His parting words? ‘Sabah’s cuisine is as wild, wonderful, and special as the land itself.’